Gloomy Gjirokaster

Birthplace of Enver Hoxha, First Secretary of the Albanian Party of Labor and leader of Albania throughout its 50 year dabble with Communism, Gjirokaster climbs out of the clouds like something out of a vampire movie. Shrouded by mist and surrounded by savage mountains, the stone city is watched over by its castle, a dark, gloomy outcrop of stone, with a chilling history. It’s the type of place dictators are born (see above) and writers dream up dramatic stories and become famous (Ismail Kadare, novelist and inaugural winner of the Man Booker International Prize lived here as a child). We spent a few days soaking up the Bram Stokers atmosphere and enjoying the slower pace of life amongst its steep cobbled streets. It other claim to fame is being the host of the semi-annual Albanian folk festival, which last ran in 2004. No so disappointed we missed that one.