Tropea, Manchester, Pompeii and "We need an Umbrella" Umbria

After Sicily we needed a place to break up the journey north. Tropea, the home of tartufu, and a gorgeous beach fit the bill perfectly. The beach was unfortunately about 500 steps down from the town, and a bit of a challenge for Kel and her recently ruptured achilles. Nonetheless multiple beach days were enjoyed, various flavours of tartufu were consumed, and the adults enjoyed a relatively relaxing few days. Bas even braved a foot fish spa.

We said our goodbyes to the beach at Tropea and headed to Naples to catch a Ryanair flight to Manchester so Bas could see his favourite soccer team, Man City. Kel had secured almost front row seats and the little guy was extremely excited. The adults managed to find a few good pies, a Sunday roast and a couple of English ales, and the weather gods came to the party for the big game (a recurring theme later in the trip). What initially looked like thunderstorms, turned into harmless clouds, and a fantastic game was played including 3 Man city goals right in front of their seats. The girls and I eventually found a pub showing the game, but with standing room only Addy soon fell asleep in my arms and we headed home. Day 2 included a visit to the Beatles museum, and then we were back to Naples to explore Pompeii.

After a morning walking around Pompeii (with me trying to remember if I had been before), we were off to Tuscany. Or close anyway. This time around Kel decided to stay in Umbria, on Largo Trasimeno. Looking back on this blog it appears we visited the lake last time, but neither of us had any recollection. This time however I suspect we will remember it. We had a cosy holiday house right on the lake (Langs lake house), with stunning sunset views across the water, and just the right amount of grass for kid amusement. Much soccer was played, marshmallows were toasted, and hours were spent playing on the hammock. Unfortunately the weather failed us for the first time this trip with wind and rain keeping us largely off the lake itself (Kel did take Em and Bas out for a quick kayak). I managed a visit to Perugia and 2 wine shops, one of which spontaneously become lunch when the sales guy started pooping corks all over the place. After trying 6 bottles, eating quite a lot of cheese, salumi and bread, I headed back home with a few excellent bottles for the rest of the trip. This shop had been recommended by the owners of our house, and as the next day was all wind and rain we decided to visit their winery for lunch. A delicious lunch and wine tasting ensued, with possibly the best food of the trip so far. The owners were not around unfortunately, being in Portugal currently. We packed up and were about to head off the next day when David the owner arrived, fresh from the airport. Turns out he was the brother of one of our friends from Medical school! Small world indeed!! Armed with a extra bottle of their wine and promises to look out for it in Australia we headed north toward Parma.

Stayed: Langs lake house

Winery: Vineria del carmine

Savouring Sicilia

After the peace and quiet of Agriturismo Ferrai we headed to the southern stronghold of Sicily. Ostensibly to visit family, but also to reconnect with one of our favourite regions from the previous trip, and show the kids where a quarter of their family comes from. Unsurprisingly it did not disappoint.

After negotiating the ferry in the car we headed for Taormina. Taormina is a tourist town. Perched on top of a hill overlooking a turquoise ocean it’s made for piazza’s with a view. We stayed right in the middle of town in a top floor apartment with an upstairs rooftop terrace (so far the kids favourite). Views were spectacular and much fun was had at the local park. It felt a little like a mini Rome with hordes of tourists descending on the old town via buses during the afternoons. Large tour groups followed guides holding up sticks with small flags while listening on James Bond style ear pieces. A particularly decent spritz was had at Franco Wine bar ("Vulcano Spritz: Campari, amaro all'arancia, prosecco, soda).

We braved a wine bar (Al Grapplolo d'Uva) and managed two glasses! 

A day trip up Mt Etna was also a highlight, with Kel testing the recently ruptured achilles against some serious snow. Luckily all went well and the kids had a ball bum sliding down the snowy slopes. Some seriously good arancini resulted from a random lunch stop in the afternoon.

Next up was Catania. Now this is more of a working city. There’s still a few tourists around the main squares / churches etc, but it’s a large industrial city with real people doing real jobs. We stayed for just two nights, to catch up with Kelly’s family. Connie, now the major link between the Australian and Sicilian branches coordinated the stay, just as she had done some 15 years earlier, when we last visited. Lunch was with extended family, then we drove out to Connie’s place to have dinner with her. A beautiful garden and house, and a great night catching up on 15 years of life. The take-away pizza was the best of the trip so far. It was really beautiful to hear of her life and her sons, and see that most of life 's challenges are universal.

Next it was off to Ortigia, the old town of Syracuse. A seriously picturesque walled city on an island with the sprawling city of Syracuse extending inland on the mainland. We stayed in a fantastic old house, which was originally part of a church. It was bit like living in a cellar, being surrounded by thick stone on all sides. Highlights included a boat trip around the island and out to some caves, a great sandwich place (Caseifico Borderi), lunch at a Putia delle cose Buone and more 8 euro negronis. Photo from the Cave "ear of Dionysius".

Then it was time to leave Sicily. Kel was sad, having a real feeling of connection with the food, crazy driving, and late starts. But the blow was softened by the next destination: Tropea, which had a beach with real sand!

Decompressing in Dipignano

After the popularity of Rome it was time for something a little quieter. Kel had booked Agriturismo Ferrari, or so she hoped. Communication had been sketchy, thus we were relieved when we appeared to be expected. The drive was "interesting" involving quite a few switchbacks on roads wide enough for one car at best. Unfortunately the venue was hosting a party on our arrival day (and the next day) thus we had to eat out in the small nearby village of Dipignano. This led to the best meal of the trip so far, when on night two the small restaurant we found had no menu, no english speakers, some delicious pasta, and a bottle of Amaro to finish. No bill was produced but somehow 80 Euro's was decided on. Some Class A ordering from Kel in Italian resulted in mostly what we expected.

The days were spent playing soccer on the the large grassy slope near the house, in the pool, or reading. No wifi, and only Italian TV reduced the screen time. Goats, and cows caused the odd interruption to play on the soccer pitch, and exact final scores are still debated.

Reconnecting with Rome

After surprisingly uneventful flights we arrived in a distinctly rainy Rome. Our base would be a stylish 2nd story apartment in Trastevere, and after a challenging jog around the narrow streets dodging tourists, I can see the attraction of the neighbourhood. Narrow streets lined with tables, filled with locals and tourists drinking coffee, Campari and the ubiquitous Aperol. The weather imprved after day one and was filled with sunshine for the remainder of the stay.

There is something special about Rome. A feeling that good times are almost guaranteed. People seem less worried about morning routines, protein intake, and the future, and more interested in enjoying today. Or maybe that's just how you feel when you visit. Either way there is something magnetic about this city, something that makes it attractive despite the hordes of people. It's unique mix of modern and ancient, quiet obsession with coffee and good food, and intriguing history continue to make it a city worth visiting. Even with 3 kids!

Highlights were meals at the local "magnifico" store, coffee (of course), and the usual sights. Bas's favourite by far was the tour of the colosseum, with the Forum and the Villa Borghese also popular. Addy bought new shoes and was very happy. Museo delle Illusioni was a big hit.

Interesting observations: 

 - Trastevere was covered in graffiti, mostly tags, not interesting street art

 - No one seems to own a mower, or a whippersnipper. Street verges are seriously overgrown.

 - A negroni out is 8 Euro. An expresso is 1.5 Euro. 

 - Driving - I didn't, thank god.

And we're back! Europe 2.0

Some 15 years after the last post I am resurrecting this blog for another trip to Europe. This one will be a little different though as life has changed since our last sojourn around the Med. This time we have 3 kids in tow, a war raging in the Middle East, and infinitely more expensive wine and accommodation tastes. Will the budget stretch the 3 months? Will we be eating home cooked pasta or dining out with Grand Cru burgundy in the last few weeks of the trip? Only time will tell.....

This is going to be more diary than blog, as I know basically no one reads it (except Mum!). This will be more "dispatches from the trenches" as I no longer have the luxury of long train rides with which to compose witty, succinct pieces. As we are driving (and I am doing the lion share), there is very little down time for writing. I apologize in advance.

So first day of term two we fly out of surprisingly sunny Melbourne, bound for Rome, via Hong Kong. Long stopovers, tired kids (and adults) and lots of airplane food. Kel has been madly in rehab for a ruptured achilles, and it will interesting to see how it holds up to airport transits and walking around Rome. Europe 2.0 here we come