Big bellies in Bordeaux

Leaving Spain behind and heading to France made for a sad Kelly and an excited Ryan. We were heading to France for 2 things only, cheese and wine. There would be no Paris (although we would end up transiting through a Paris train station), no Eiffle tower, no Louve, and only 2 destinations; Bordeaux, centre of all things red wine, and Burgundy, spiritual home of that most alluring of wines, Pinot Noir. It was also a chance to change Kel’s previous impressions of France: dirty, expensive and rude.

We had decided to stay in an apartment, as there were few hostels listed and we had specific plans. We arrived late (in order that we could get a last dose of Spanish sun at San Sebastian) and so headed into the tourist office early the next morning. All winery tours we booked out, it was a Sunday, but there was one planned tomorrow that would visit Saint Emilion and its wine region. The day would instead be spent visiting the city’s sights and the wine museum to brush up on the local classification scheme. If infinitely curious about all things oenological you can read the next post (up in a day or 2) where Ryan prattles on about wine for ages.

Not wanting to waste any time we tried a few wines at the wine museum then headed to the market to pick up some fresh pasta, cheese, wine and anything else that looked tasty. After many tastings and charades with the sellers (our French was a long way behind our Spanish) we headed home with our bounty of: some slices of a very tasty smelling cured ham, a big hunk of gorgonzola, some fresh pasta, some leaks and a few tomatoes. Oh and a bottle of Bordeaux of course.

We (mainly Kel) whipped up a gorgonzola, leak and ham pasta that was up there with the best meals we’ve eaten (even if we do say so ourselves). The quality of fresh produce you can get in France is amazing and the variety and quality of cheese is easily as exciting as that of wine. Feeling rather proud and very satisfied we had an early night in order to be ready for the wine tour the next day.

The bus tour of the Saint Emilion region was worth every penny of the incredibly steep 80 Euro’s we each paid. When you are THE red wine region of the world you can pretty much charge what you like. Unfortunately the weather had turned and it was a bleak and rainy countryside we traversed during the day. Service at both wineries was excellent and both involved a detailed (a little too in depth for some of the group) tour explaining the life of the grapes from vine to wine and of course, an explanation of the classification system. The 2nd winery put on lunch and tasting was more like sharing a bottle between three. Forgetting the price tag of the day came easily after lunch (we had finished the left over wine with the help of a few Kiwi’s) and we finished the day with a tour of the world heritage listed hill town of Saint Emilion.

Coincidentally the winemaker/tour guide at the 2nd winery worked at a restaurant in Bordeaux at night and suggested we come alone that night. We had already planned on visiting the place, known as Baud et Millet, as the Lonely planet revealed it had more than 250 Cheeses on offer. Well it turned out to be an incredible night, with more wine and cheese than either of us could imagine. For a more detailed rundown of the night and restaurant check back in a day or two when we upload the next post: Wine and Cheese in France 1.