Wednesday, October 7, 2009

The Daring Dolomites

The Dolomites, a stunningly beautiful mountain range in the north east of Italy, was to be our next destination. They may well be the most beautiful Mountains in the world, but their history reveals a much darker past. Being the frontline between the Italians and the Austrians during WW1, they are awash with relics (some very useful) from that immensely difficult and pointless struggle. In order to allow troop movement through this very steep mountain range, a huge number of “tracks” were built, some of which are more like rock climbs than bushwalks. These steep, sometimes vertical routes all follow a metal cable, to which a climber can attach themselves via a harness and some simple rock climbing gear, thereby preventing serious injury in the case of a fall. These Via Ferratas (’The Iron way”) as they’re know was why we were here. Nowhere else in the world can you go rock climbing with such little equipment, still be absolutely safe, and enjoy views of such amazing beauty. After seven days last year with my uncle I was already making plans for a return visit. And this time I had convinced 5 friends to join me. (Photo - the gang on the way to our 1st Via Ferrata)

The original plan after Slovenia was to get to Venice where we’d hire a car and drive to the Dolomites. This proved difficult as we wished to drop off the car (on a Sunday) somewhere near the Austrian boarder and catch a train to Munich for Oktoberfest. In a stroke of genesis I can’t take complete credit for, we realised we could pick up and drop off the car at either ends of Austria and drop down to the Dolomites in between. After some discussions about drivers and insurance it eventuated that I was to be the only driver. Either people couldn’t drive manual cars, didn’t have international drivers permits (completely unnecessary we later found out) or weren't keen on driving without comprehensive insurance. So after a quick train over the boarder to Villach we met our new companion Pasq, and picked up the 9 seater VW Van that would hence be known as Hilda (photo above, credit to Ray).

A brand new turbo diesel, it drove like a dream. And just as well considering the conditions we’d meet getting to the Dolomites. What should have been a relatively easy 4 hour drive to Arabba, our home for the next 6 days, turned into quite an epic journey. We faced rain, snow, ice, freezing temperatures, windy mountain roads, wild gazelle, Austrian towns without strudel, Italian drivers, music from the Eurovision song contest and Pasq’s incessant finger drumming. But thanks to some great navigating by Adam and the traction control on Hilda we made it to Arabba, if alittle late. A fantastic dinner awaited us, cooked by our Chalet host for the week, Mike.

Over the next 5 days we had sunshine, rain, snow, sleet, wind and mist, weather crazier than even Melbourne could have provided. But despite this we walked, climbed and tunnelled our way around the Dolomites. We walked to the Ranch hut refugio and got some skiing practice on the way down as the path was covered in snow. We climbed 3 Via Ferratas, including wandering over the longest swing bridge in the Dolomites (featured in that classic CliffHanger). We even explored some WW1 tunnels to avoid getting wet on a rainy day! The highlight of the week was Piz de Lech, a more difficult climb with a few exposed sections that got the blood flowing. A particularly scary section involved two twenty metre long vertical ladders then an overhanging section at the top. “I’m freaking out up here”, was heard from a certain member of the group as they attempted the difficult exit from the ladder. (Photo - Adam on a snowy section of the VF Marino Bianco)



We reached the end of the weak intact with quite a few new experiences for everyone. Rach had seen snow up close for the first time, Kel, Pasq, Adam and Ray had climbed a Via Ferratta and I’d seen the beautiful Dolomites covered in snow. It wasn’t a typical week of the trip but it may well have been one of the best.

Photos - 1 Kelly on our 1st VF Cir Spitz. 2 The group explores the Lagazuoi tunnels)

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