Of Mites and Men (or Woman)

We just had to make sure we were better before posting this but we're now pretty sure things are looking better so......

Bed bugs it seems are still are part of cheap backpacking. A few days after leaving Marakesh Kelly started coming out in spots, first on her hands then back and legs. After several inspections we were pretty sure they were bites but they were continuing to appear after leaving Marakesh and staying in a much better hotel. Chicken Pox was suggested (as was leprosy but that didn't go down to well) but Kel has already had chicken pox and was not unwell. We decided to use the Doctors best friend (time) and wait.

At first it seemed things were getting better but after Fes, on the bus to Chefchaouen things got worse quickly. I'd had a go at finding some bodywash with permethrin in Fes but nobody it seemed had ever heard of it. The spots were now spreading fast and appearing in front of our eyes. We toyed with the idea of heading straight to Spain but after hearing about the Scottish couple mentioned in a previous post we decided to stick it out in Chefchaouen in the hope we could get some help from the English speaking hosts. As soon as we arrived they commented on Kel's spots and we thought it might be time to seek professional help. After all we had tried at a few pharmacies and it seemed they knew nothing of bed bugs.

The Doctor's visit did not go well. His English was nonexistent and our Spanish not good enough to get across our point. By now Kel had quite large welts and it was starting to look a little allergic in nature. He certainly thought it was and offered Kel a shot of cortisone in the backside. I suggested tablets and we got some prednisolone and an antihistamine. Still no permethrin. So Kel tried the prednisolone which helped a little but we were still convinced the cause of the allergic reaction was ongoing bites from some mite. We hit the Internet that night and came up with some other compounds that might help. I suggested oral Ivermectin as a last resort as we'd used that a few times up in Tennant Creek but then realised that whatever we chose we were both doing it as I as probably infected but asymptomatic.

Early the next morning we presented to the largest Chemist in town with our new list, but to no avail. Absolutely determined not to go away empty handed I pointed to the shelf with washing stuff and asked too look at everything. After going though the whole lot we found a few things that looked good and headed home. Taking over our hosts bathroom and washing machine for the afternoon we managed to get just about everything washed. And yes, but the next morning things were definitely on the improve!

Here's a few pics of the now interesting rashes.....

The Bites

A little bit of Scottland in the highlands of Morocco

After Fes we were keen to settle down for a bit in one spot and I was keen to see some of the mountains. Chefchaouen is a small town at the base of the Rif mountains and seemed like a great place for a few days of R+R. Arriving at the bus stop we had no accommodation booked but in typically randon circumstances found ourselves talking to some other tourists about accommodation options. They had heard of a guesthouse a little out of town operated by a scottish couple. It sounded too good to miss and having a few english speakers around would be a welcome change. So up the hill we headed.

We were welcomed by some very thick scottish accents but had a fatastic 3 days taking over their house, using their washing machine, exploring the nearby mountains and drinking some local beer. A 2 night stopover became three but we did really have to say goodbye as Spain was calling. A Bus to Tangier and a quick ferry across the strait of Gibraltar and we were in sunny Spain, at a lovely small beachside town called Tarifa.

A wonderful few days were spent relaxing on the beach in Tarifa and eating tapas before we headed off to Seville. Not as big as you think Seville is quite a nice city with a few things to do. Flamenco, bull fighting and the local cathedral (possibly the 3rd biggest in the world) are what it's known for. We spent a few days doing the tourist thing again and have had some good nights out with fellow travels from the hostel.

Now that we're in Spain we have been staying at Hostels which really helps! There's no hostels in Morocco so its hard to meet fellow travelers and swap advice etc.

Its off to Granada today, then we head up the Coast of Spain for some more sun filled weeks on the beaches. No sunburn yet but it won't be long.........

Fes, Morocco

Some Donkeys in one of the alleys


The entrance to the medina and old town


Some guy with plenty of stuff to sell

Fes was not quite as impressive as we might have expected, and in the end we only stayed one night. The old town and medina is still a great place to walk around but you quickly get sick of people trying to sell you stuff!

Essaouira

View from the hostel at night


Fishing fleet


Town's defenses


Main street

A great beach town on the atlantic coast of Morocco, Essaouira is a great place to wind down after Marrakesh.

Photos of Marrakesh

A few photos from Marrakesh. I've put some more up on Facebook here:

http://www.facebook.com/album.php?aid=84858&id=603243044&l=ca931943c8


Djemaa el-Fna, the central square of Marrakesh, by day.


As above, by night.


Grab a quick drink, Moroccan style - Mint tea at the ready


Some guys having a break (and some Mint tea) from trying to sell us stuff


Tagine and Couscous, again.

Bazaar's beaches and beers in Morocco

It goes without saying that we have been exploring more economical dining options since our last post. Luckily Marrakesh has some great eating options and we are really getting stuck into the Tajines and couscous that is literally everywhere! I've been drinking quite alot of mint tea (made from gunpowder green tea soaked in enormous quantities of mint with equally enormous quantities of sugar), although Kelly finds it way too sweet and has been taking it without sugar. Imagine one of those mint leaf jube things thats covered in sugar - in a drink and that's what mint tea tastes like.

We've also rocked the local Kasbar (photos soon) and have walked the endless souks in the area. So far we've bought only a few packets of nuts, although I insulted shopkeeper for offering him $10 for a pair of pants. When you've got plenty of Euro wielding French walking around the Aussie dollar doesn't go far.

We left Marakesh on a pretty dodgy local bus (bound for Essaouira) after a long argument with the bag man I was forced to put my daypack below (and pay for the privilege!) Subsequently I was ready to dash off the bus at the next 75 stops in case some local made off with it! There will be no argument next time!

All our cares have now left though as we have spent the last few days in the small, beachside town of Essaoira. The beach is pretty poor by Australian standards but its sunny and there is plenty of free sand. We've found good coffee at a small local restaurant ran by a co-operative of local women (they seem a little hard done by over here) ironically named Dar Jeerling. Thanks to Jum for recommending another local restaurant via facebook. After soaking up some sun we are now bound for Fes, which Matt has assured us will be fun.

"Doing it cheap" in Marakesh

Arriving in Marrakesh we were keen to "do things on the cheap" for a while after the rather expensive few days in London. We found a suitably cheap place to stay ($10 each) right next to the main square "Djemaa el-Fna". Next it was time to find somewhere to eat. the square held lots of promise with amazing clouds of steam and smoke and some great smells wafting from the rows and rows of food stalls. But Kelly had the Lonely planet out and had found something a little more decadent.

Casa Lalla, the home and restaurant of Michelin starred Chef Richard Neat, sounded like too good an opportunity to miss. Born in France, Richard had left Europe for a quieter life in Morocco and runs a small guesthouse and restaurant from his home deep through the winding narrow alleyways of Old Marakesh. The lonely planet said "book well in advance" but we thought we'd have a go at finding it anyway. After several detours and quite a few geographically embarrassing moments we spotted a tiny arrow pointing don and alley with the name "Casa Lalla. Winding through narrower and narrower alleys we finally came upon a large closed wooden door. "Must be closed", we thought. I knocked just to make sure and within in a minute Richard was at the door speaking to us in rapid fire French. After our poor attempts at French he changed to English and we we delighted to find he had space for us tonight! We were to return promptly at 8PM. He mentioned something about alcohol but we weren't sure what so went on our way.

After a few attempts at buying any wine failed we returned with a bottle of water at 8PM. Well the place was AMAZING. The house was an alcove from the never-ending bustle of Marakesh. It had pools and columns and a chef who was also the waiter. The food was well described in the lonely planet as "a fusion of Moroccan and Haute French cuisine" and was quite incredible. And he had a bottle of Moroccan red wine for us as well! Although costing around 10 times the price of a meal at the street stalls we both agreed it had been worth it. So our 1st day on the cheap had not been so cheap after all but we had eaten and been served by a Michelin starred chef in his own home.

New and old friends in London

Thursday and Friday saw us catching up with friends in London. Late Wednesday night saw us rendezvous with David Doig (a Scottish trained Doctor who worked at Geelong for some time, now working in the infamous NHS in London). We dined on typical English fare at a local pub in Kensington and planned the next days activities.

Doig promised Kelly he could take her to a museum and show her 2 things without her getting bored. This would be quite a feat and one I had not managed so far on the trip. He was so sure there was even a wager made with Kelly receiving a chocolate bar of her choice if she did not find the exhibits interesting. So the Victoria and Albert Museum was pencilled in for the morning and we all agreed a trip to the Tower of London would be a good way to spend the afternoon. If time permitted we would finish the day in reflection at Evensong at Westminster abbey (also the only Free way to enter that great abbey).

Well true to his word, Kelly (and I) were suitably impressed with the Raphael Cartoons and the Plaster cast gallery that no chocolate bar changed hands. The visit to the Tower was also rather enjoyable although Kelly had already been. A Henry VIII armour exhibition and a glimpse at the Crown jewels were the highlight.

Friday night was spent in the incredibly hospitable company of Gareth Rowlands, a friend from Braemar College (my high school). A quick look around his hotel (the Park Royal) let us know what we were missing out on (our room being the size of bathroom at his hotel) and a Gin and tonic before heading out set the mood of the evening perfectly. A (possibly more) British cuisine was chosen for the night and we headed off to dine at the local Indian restaurant. A veritable feast awaited us, first in food and then in alcohol as the hours flew by in rapid conversation. Early closing time at the pub next door closed the evening early (and just as well looking back) and we said our farewells. Hopefully it will not be another 6 or so years until we meet again.

The tube was a mess the next morning, with the all important central line closed. That meant a 15 minute journey to Victoria station took 1 hour and we were starting to get a little nervous about catching our easyjet flight to Morocco. Luckily all went well and we headed off to Marrakesh, with only mildly sore heads from the night before.

Here are a few photos of our daytrip to Oxford and The Cotswolds.

Was a very cloudy day but the rain stayed away just long enough for us to see 2 lovely English villages in The Cotswolds and have a wander around Oxford.
Walking around Oxford makes you want to go back to University! Its no doubt a few years studying at Oxford would be a lot of fun, and walking around the colleges had us reminising about those great times back at Monash (particularly at Bendigo).


Front of University College, Oxford



Kelly in the Quad at Jesus college (no Streaking!)



Main Hall, Oxford (By Chistopher Wren)




Kel walking in the Cotswolds


The Cotswolds

Day 1 - London Summer

Yes we have arrived in Sunny London and it is a whopping 9 degrees! Getting back on the London underground sparked a long discussion about how good it is and how amazingly dismal Melbourne public transport is. We arrived at our tiny hotel in Bayswater at around 8AM and proceeded to put on every piece of warm clothing we had (which for me was not very much!)

We've walked around the usual places (Hyde Park, Soho, Central London) and managed to find both good coffee and a good lunch all in one day.

Below is a map of our proposed trip, especially posted for those people we are hoping to meet up with.

Time for an afternoon nap now in our 2 by 2 foot room....
Will be some photos up tomorrow.

View Ryan and Kels Mediterranean Odyssey in a larger map